Einar Skúlason - One of Iceland's most renowned guides

But who is Einar Skúlason, and where did the burning enthusiasm for hiking originate?

“I was young when I began wandering, with my grandma Hulda, around the beaches and hills of Hvalfjörður. My grandparents' second home was the oil station, and they had a cabin in Botnsdalur. My grandma talked a lot, and as I recall she told tales of snails and shells on the shore and I would look for spiders to show me the way to the berries. She would also talk about hidden people. More things lived in the landscape than the eye could see. I slowly started walking longer distances without her, but I‘d always tell her about it.”

It‘s plain to see that Einar‘s relationship with his grandmother affected his future hobbies. When he began hiking with others, it was soon obvious he had both the best sense of direction and knowledge of the environment. It was only natural that he took on the responsibility of leading the hikes.

“I told stories during the hikes, the same way my grandmother had told me. I felt that I had fun doing it and I could easily remember the names of places and stories. So that suited me nicely. I may not have foreseen it being my livelihood, but it was probably other people’s reaction and encouragement that made it snowball. Eventually, it became my main profession.”

Finally, we asked Einar how he relaxes after a long summer of travelling, as he has hiked with tens of groups all around the country.

“I like to go camping alone somewhere. That’s how I recover quickly. I also enjoy being with my wife somewhere in the countryside and usually I prefer staying in a tent rather than a house. That way, you’re closer to nature. Sometimes it’s better to get inside when the weather is insane, as you’d wake up many times in the tent to fix it and secure the stakes that have been loosened by the wind.”

The landscape tells a story

Since high school, Einar has been infatuated by reading the country, looking at the landscape and imagining the lava flow over the past 10 thousand years.

“I see hyaloclastite ridges and rocks which were created by subglacial eruptions, I see cavities and fractures connected to the tectonic plates and volcanic systems. I try to pass this information along as I feel it’s important that people understand how this young island was formed and keeps developing with volcanic activity and by the weather. I dislike seeing aggressive plants overtaking the landscape in Iceland. I talk about it and try to emphasize the characteristics of each part of the country. All of that is important to understanding the environment and connecting to it.”

Vesen og vergangur - a controversial name

In 2011, when Einar was at a crossroads in his life, he founded Vesen og vergangur, which can be translated as “troubles and wandering”. But why did he choose a name that might have a negative connotation rather than a positive one?

“I didn’t want a name which would mean 'happy hiking', 'reach the top', or something in that vein. I always wanted something different. One of the reasons for founding the group was to be able to rent a bus and travel together, so I would be rid of any car troubles. “Troubles” was therefore the perfect name and someone suggested adding “wandering”. I just thought it was funny to have the name for a hiking club that would mean troubles and getting lost. Which is why it was chosen.

But I have never gotten lost and I can’t remember ever in my life losing my way. We have very few troubles and usually the issues are positive on these journeys. Someone forgets sunglasses, a hat, or the shoelaces on someone’s shoes break. Little things which a group will be able to fix, because usually someone has extra.”

The first hike was on Leggjabrjótur, which coincidentally was the first hike Einar went on alone when he was a teenager.

On his journeys, Einar has emphasized that everyone is equal, no one is of more importance than anyone else and everyone should enjoy themselves on their terms.

“When the group works, the journey is usually fantastic. That’s why I emphasize group awareness.”

Einar also puts emphasis on the stories that live in the landscape. They make the journey an adventure.

“Then it’s the geology, how the land formed and was created, place names where farms used to be and the profession of the people who used to live there. Some want to hear about geology and nature but most people are curious about man’s relationship with nature and the supernatural. So I tell stories of that and I think it differentiates my trips from other trips.”

Being near nature

Usually, Einar travels with Icelandic people who think they know the country well, but when hiking around a landscape, the closeness becomes more than what can be seen through a windshield.

“Many people mention the brightness. On short, sunny days in the winter, the air becomes so pure you can see 200 kilometers in the distance. The sunrise and sunset in the summer are also amazing. I have walked all night on a sunny night in June, I’ve played football and played a round of golf at night. The light is incredibly beautiful. Then it’s the darkness in the winter. Many are afraid of it, but a lot of the time, I feel more comfortable walking in the darkness. It’s no problem in the snow, and it’s easier to notice rocks and cliffs sticking out. It’s more difficult when there’s no snow and the darkness completely takes over. The modern man spends so much time in the light, he’s lost the ability to see as well in the darkness as our forefathers did. That can be trained.

Then it’s the stories that make people wonder. All the stories that are hidden in the landscape.”

Nature stands close to the Icelanders' heart

But what does Einar think is important for travelers to understand about Iceland and its culture?

“First and foremost, I hope traveling uncovers the fact that everyone in this world is basically the same. Icelanders, like people from other countries, are mostly good people who want the best for everyone else. That being said, there are obviously characteristics which relate to weather, conditions and the fact that urbanization was developed late here, so most people are descendants of farmers, fishermen and therefore they are still mentally close to nature. Maybe that’s why such a high percentage of the nation still believes in elves, hidden people and other supernatural phenomena. That might also be why so many people think it’s natural to make use of nature in a self-sufficient way, especially sea creatures such as whales.

Responsible tourism

Regarding the future of the Icelandic travel industry, Einar hopes travellers coming here respect nature and the culture.

“Regarding the government’s policy, I think it should include regional and nature perspectives, as well as encouraging spreading tourism around. There are amazing places in all parts of the country.”

A Pilgrimage hike come to life

Through the years, Einar has offered a wide variety of trips, in every season so the sudden weather changes have affected them. One trip is especially memorable, it happened one year on Whitsun.

“I remember organizing a pilgrimage hike on Whitsun in cooperation with reverend Gunnþór Ingason. It became quite the pilgrimage because it rained the whole way and it was very windy, so the hike lasted around six hours. In constant rain and wind, the water will get into every crevice, the neckline of your coat and other places, which it wouldn’t get to in still weather. Everyone reached the final destination in Selvogur, where we had hot soup and reverend Gunnþór held service. The group was feeling chilly, but felt better in the bus on the way home. I don’t think anyone will forget that pilgrimage. The hikes where the weather isn’t perfect and slight troubles come up seem to be the ones that stick with you.”

Hvalfjordur stands close to heart

We asked Einar to tell us about his favorite place, which turned out to be difficult for an experienced guide like him.

“If I had to pick one place, it would probably be Hvalfjörður, because I have so many good childhood memories there with my grandmother and other family members. Many tourists go to Botnsdalur, but there are many other beautiful places in Hvalfjörður, and of course, I have an emotional connection to them because of my history.

I started hiking for real in Hvalfjörður and there I have so many good memories since I was a child and a teen. The shore in Helguvík, the waterfalls at Bláskeggsá, Glymur and the canyons in Botnsdalur, the forest in Brynjudalur, the waterfalls and shore at Hvítanes where I’d fish and of course the piers in Miðsandur where I’d watched the whales dragged to shore, the barracks there and Hvalfjarðareyri and all it’s spherulites. Meðalfell in Kjós, Reynivallaháls and so on. All these places come to mind when I hike any of the mountains in the fjord today.”

Solitude renews the energy

Finally, we asked Einar how he relaxes after a long summer of travelling, as he has hiked with tens of groups all around the country.

“I like to go camping alone somewhere. That’s how I recover quickly. I also enjoy being with my wife somewhere in the countryside and usually I prefer staying in a tent rather than a house. That way, you’re closer to nature. Sometimes it’s better to get inside when the weather is insane, as you’d wake up many times in the tent to fix it and secure the stakes that have been loosened by the wind.”

Key to Iceland and Einar Skúla

Einar is extremely experienced when it comes to hiking, guiding and storytelling about Iceland's nature.

At Key to Iceland you will find an abundance of useful information from Einar, recommendations for hikes as well as other knowledge about Iceland which gives the traveller a new perspective and a deeper recognition of the country whilst travelling.

Einar will share with his favourite destinations as well as good advise to hikers whether they are beginners or more experienced.