Hornstrandir: Iceland’s Last True Wilderness

May 2025

If there’s one place in Iceland where nature still rules, untouched and untamed, it’s Hornstrandir.

Sitting at the very edge of the Westfjords — where steep cliffs meet the cold Arctic seas — Hornstrandir is a place where the land remains almost exactly as it has for centuries.

There are no roads here. No permanent towns. No power lines humming through the valleys.

Only raw cliffs, wildflowers, seabirds, and the whisper of the wind moving across a landscape that feels closer to a dream than anything manmade.

A Place Left to the Elements

Hornstrandir was once home to scattered farms and fishing families who braved the fierce winters and the isolation.

But by the mid-20th century, the hardships became too much, and the last residents moved away, leaving the land to reclaim itself.

Today, Hornstrandir is protected as a nature reserve — and visiting it feels like stepping into an older Iceland, where humans are only guests, passing quietly through.

It’s where Arctic foxes roam freely, wildflowers paint the meadows in summer, and cliffs fall so sharply into the ocean that they seem to tear the sky in two.

Getting to Hornstrandir: The Journey Matters

There’s no driving here — only boats.

Most travelers leave from Ísafjörður, the unofficial capital of the Westfjords, boarding small ferries that cross the fjords to landings with names like Hesteyri, Aðalvík, and Veiðileysufjörður.

From there, it’s on foot — hiking trails weave across valleys, along cliff edges, and through mossy hills.

Every step carries you further into a world where nature moves at its own steady, unhurried pace.

What to Experience in Hornstrandir:

The Arctic Foxes

Hornstrandir is one of the few places in Iceland where the Arctic fox thrives without fear.

If you move quietly and respectfully, you might glimpse one — watching from a distance, curious, unafraid.

The Cliffs of Hornbjarg

Hornstrandir Westfjords - Kristyna Sindelkova

At the very northern tip, the Hornbjarg cliffs rise like a fortress from the sea.

Seabirds — puffins, guillemots, kittiwakes — nest here in their tens of thousands, their cries filling the air.

Walking along the cliff tops, you feel the pull of the vast ocean below and the endless sky above. It’s humbling and exhilarating all at once.

The Silence

Maybe the greatest gift Hornstrandir offers is its silence.

No cars. No towns. No distant roads.

Just the wind, the water, and the heartbeat of the wild land beneath your feet.

Things to Know Before You Go

Be Prepared: Hornstrandir is a true wilderness. You must carry everything you need — food, shelter, clothing. Weather changes quickly, and conditions can be harsh, even in summer.
Respect the Land: Leave no trace. Stick to marked trails when possible, camp only where allowed, and respect the fragile ecosystem.
Plan Carefully: Boat transport must be booked in advance. Some travelers take guided multi-day hikes, while others opt for day trips to places like Hesteyri, a beautiful, abandoned village framed by mountains and sea.